I like the title of this blog post. Fact is, I am now back in Lagos (Nigeria) with Alex and looks like I am here to stay, for the foreseeable future at least.
My time in Munich was great but being apart from Alex was getting increasingly difficult so I decided to bite the bullet. I flew to Lagos.
Been here 11 days now and I wanted to settle in a bit before blogging but in that 11 days I have discovered Lagos is not just OK, it's better than OK.
Like anywhere new, you can have no expectations; go there and make the most of it. It is less what Lagos can do for my life and more what I can make of my life in Lagos.
So, watch this space and in the meantime here is a photo of the view from 'my space':
Very strange thing living in Lagos, Nigeria. You ask someone how it is to live in Lagos and there is almost a standard reply of, "It's OK".
I spent two weeks in Lagos and I openly admit that is not a long time but seriously, nobody is ever "great" with Lagos. It's always just "OK". I'll try to observe again when I am back in September to see if I can get a more positive result for you!
Anyway, I did 2 weeks in Lagos and guess what? It was OK. I explained with my last post (One Week in Lagos) that I had been exploring the cafes, bars and restaurants since I didn't know what else to do. Week 2 was much more of the same although we did go to a beach and I also (wait for it...) explored a supermarket! Here are my continued first impressions of Lagos as I spent my second week there:
1) I'll say it again - Lagos is "OK". Ask anyone that lives there!
2) Funny moment: We were in the queue at the road-toll station. The very long queue was for those that did not possess a pre-paid ticket. The shorter queue (thankfully) was for people like us that did possess a pre-paid access ticket for passing straight through the toll stations. The police stopped the car in front of us due to them not having a ticket, hence they should not have been in our queue. What happened next was just funny. Here is the conversation in our car between my husband (Alex) and the Driver:-
Alex: Why did the car come to this queue if they don't have a ticket?
Driver: (Totally surprised that my husband had even asked-) It is a woman, Sir.
Me: (Laughing)
Driver: (Turning embarrassed, shade of red) Sorry Madam.
3) LOS airport is the worst airport in the World, I think. I will probably blog this on its own at some point but you will have every single bag you are carrying with you opened and inspected (regardless of whether cabin baggage or check-in). It does not matter who you are or what flight status you might have or what skin colour you have (so at least they are fair in that regard). Absolutely everybody has every bag checked. Also, boarding the plane seems to be a competition for Nigerians; it is as though you do not actually possess a pre-reserved seat number that you are entitled to and so must push, shove and generally carry a complete dis-regard for personal space! Deep breaths are required.
4) I still maintain that you do not get hassled so much. Nigerians will try to hassle you by offering their services but they only offer once and don't continue to bug you so actually in my opinion, this is not hassling.
5) Do not expect the supermarket check-out people to even know what they are doing (or maybe that was just my personal experience in 'Grand Square' supermarket).
6) On the up-side I can see that having our own apartment in Lagos (rather than hotel dwelling) will actually make life a lot more affordable since groceries seem a bit more normally priced. Still not found a huge supply of decent vegetables but then I have not had the need to find them yet; we do not have a kitchen!
7) But then there is the relentless traffic in Lagos. Here is a small video clip from outside our Hotel room on a normal Friday evening:
And so to my second review of restaurants/cafes in Lagos:
Duck Green Curry: Bangkok Restaurant
1) Bangkok Restaurant: I loved it! We were served by a lovely Thai lady who even let us speak some Thai with her. For me, having lived ten years in Thailand, it was very home-from-home. We were presented with complimentary salted roast peanuts with our drinks (just like Thailand!) and then we ordered a mixed starter plate (spring rolls, chicken satays and the like). It came with the sweet chilli sauce as it should and a peanut dip for the satay. Alex ordered a Duck Green curry and I dug into a bit of that. It was delicious! I had a Pad Grapow Gai (Chicken with basil leaves) which was absolutely enormous! The portion size was way too large and the chicken dish was a bit too MSG for my liking but in general it was OK. Complimentary juicy fresh pineapple was served at the end of the meal. Bonus!
This place is definitely recommendable and I will return but I think I will trust their curry dishes more than their traditional stir-fry-type Thai dishes. I'd like to give their Tom Yam soup a go next time too so watch this space. (Find them via their Facebook page).
Pad Grapow Gai: Bangkok Restaurant
2) Bottles: This was my kind of place and my kind of evening! As you may or may not know, I am not a big fan of 'funky' bars/night clubs that seem to be all the rage throughout the World, and also in Lagos. Bottles is not this kind of place. It is quite normal!
It's actually a kind of Mexican restaurant-pub and every Wednesday night they have live music. Reportedly the best Margaritas in town - I can't vouch for them being the best in town but order a pitcher with friends and you will soon believe they are the best in town whether you thought that on the first sip or not! The band were terrific with a really good mix of tunes and it seems that every expat in Lagos knows to be there on Wednesday nights.
Point of note: I have been told you should book a table, especially if you go as a group because the place is literally heaving on Wednesday nights. Food was good though and most of all, I enjoyed the good tunes. I was dancing and everything!
If you want to meet other expats, this is probably the right place to be on a Wednesday evening. (Click here for their Facebook page). Please don't tell my husband about all-you-can-eat Wings N'Beer night on Tuesdays at Bottles or he might swap my Wednesday night there for Tuesdays ;-)
3) Atican Beach: Only about 20 km away from Victoria Island but the traffic was terrible when we chose to go there; about 2pm on Saturday afternoon! You enter at Atican Beach Resort. We had to pay a fee of 1000.-Naira per person. Now, do not expect 5* luxury beach complex but do expect a low-key do-it-yourself type beach. The staff around offered their services straight away but we politely declined and took a walk down to the ocean-front to see for ourselves.
Greeted upon arrival by the sandy football/volleyball area and some cool wall art
The Sea!!!! (I love the sea) Sadly, if you looked up the beach you saw lots of debris and the ocean looks prone to nasty rip currents but I still dabbled my feet in the water.
Looking up the beach to the left
Everybody on the beach seemed to be local Nigerian but there was no trouble. Everyone was just enjoying their afternoon. As I understand it you can rent a small beach shack for yourself/family/friends (although I don't know the rate) and it looks like a fun afternoon to bring a cool box of beers and a BBQ picnic. You don't need to bring music as they have a quality sound system blasting music across the complex (and that is not as bad as it may sound). I felt there was a really good vibe. I did feel like maybe I had out-grown this kind of 'hip' beach hang-out but we had a couple of large Heineken beers (800 Naira per bottle) and sat a while; before I knew it, I was saying I would return with a group of friends!
Could definitely be a cool place to hang and relax very low-key with friends. It's not really a couples hang-out so don't expect any kind of romantic atmosphere; think more low-key party atmosphere! You make it as you want it; sit back, enjoy the ocean view and if you fancy a dance, get up and enjoy the music.
Looking up the beach to the right
There you have it. My first two weeks in Lagos.
Now safely back in Munich and back working full-time in the Munich office. It is good to be home and the weather is awesome. Made the most of it with an 18.2km run this morning before going to work... a FREEDOM I have missed (and now appreciate so much).
Back to Lagos, Nigeria in September so expect more blogging from Lagos but first I will enjoy the Munich summer and it is only 12 more days until the Half Marathon around Cheddar Gorge in UK. Bring it on...
I made it to Lagos, Nigeria. I've been here a week so far. Here are my first impressions of Lagos and some things I have found surprising.
View from room at Four Points Victoria Island
1) I had been told that I would get hassled a lot at the airport. To be honest, it was not so bad. When I was approached for a taxi or help with my bags, I politely said, "No thank you" and there was no further issue. This surprised me since I remember in Uganda, people would simply keep walking alongside me as though I might change my mind at any moment and suddenly want that taxi.
I had to wait for Alex, so I bought a bottle of water and placed myself in the nearest cafe.
2) It was super hot and sticky in the airport. There seemed to be no ventilation but hopefully I won't have to sit around too long in the future.
3) I arrived around 7pm on Sunday evening. This seems to be key since the journey from the airport to Victoria Island was really rather fast. I have been told that this is unique because the journey to/from the airport is renowned for being very slow, with lots of traffic.
4) Champagne is a big thing here. It is really quite easily accessible in the supermarkets and restaurants on Victoria Island. The reason? Wine is not great and is very expensive so when you are spending 100.-USD on a bottle of not-great wine, why not go the whole hog and order champagne? Erm... ok then!
5) Traffic is hectic and noisy. If Kampala (Uganda) traffic seemed crazy, this is a whole new level! I have no intentions of ever driving here. They drive on the right side (as in mainland Europe) but it is very aggressive driving with lots of hooting of the horns.
6) The streets are unsafe. Now honestly, I am not being fair there. I have not been for a walk on the street but only because I have been told not to! It is a strange thing. There are absolutely no expats walking around here.
7) You can get most things - there is even a branch of MAC (make-up) and Mango (fashion) here in Palms Mall. However, it does seem that fresh vegetables are difficult... hence there was an amazing supply of vitamins "with greens" in the pharmacy to make up the all-important five a day. This is the most difficult thing for me to come to terms with!!! I love my fresh vegetables. 8) I find the people very friendly but then I am living in an expat bubble that is life at Four Points Sheraton... Maybe I will feel different when I am really living here. I shall not be negative though - for now, I have found Nigerians perfectly friendly.
Restaurants/cafes i have tried because so far there seems little else to do here:
1) Art Cafe: Very nice and has an elevated open-air area where you can enjoy real Italian brewed coffee. They also do alcohol, cocktails, soft drinks, cakes and snacks. Nice ambiance.
Coffee at Art Cafe
2) Lagoon: Bar/restaurant down on the water across from Ikoyi. Nice setting because you can sit by the water and apparently they serve the most enormous cocktails if you dare to order one. I didn't! Enjoyed 2 beers, one mojito, one soda water, hummus pitta plate, 2 prawn skewers, 2 chicken tikka skewers, a salad and a mini pizza. The price was around 160.-USD.
View from Lagoon Bar/Restaurant
Lagoon Bar/Restaurant
3) Bungalow: I loved this place! Kind of relaxed pub atmosphere and the perfect place I see myself watching the football or formula one. Their TVs are on invertors so even if the power goes out, you don't miss the action. There menus are on tablets (think iPad or similar) which was rather cool! Ordered chicken avocado salad, burrito, nachos/guacamole, one beer and one soda water. Price was around 60.-USD.
4) Coral Blue Seafood Restaurant: Looks like a fast food joint when you arrive but actually the decor is quite nice. Very nautical. Climb the white stairs with rope banisters and turn left into the restaurant with panoramic windows. I had a mixed platter/combo of seafood with mussels, prawns and grilled fish. Salad was very fresh. Generally very impressed but for such a big restaurant, it was dead! Maybe we went too early on Sunday evening (around 6pm).
Inside Coral Blue Seafood Restaurant
Inside Coral Blue Seafood Restaurant
5) Cafe Nero: Small intimate coffee shop right next door to Bungalow. Found it on google and decided to give it a go. Enormous coffees (if you order the large) and well-priced. Their carrot cake was good and they seem to have free wifi. We called in randomly on a Saturday afternoon and there were a few people in. The sofas were comfortable. I liked it. And that be that. One week in Lagos. My first impressions.
